What do you want from a wine in a pub? A classic "gooseberry and cat's pee" scented Sauvignon Blanc? A big, bold "tobacco and leather" tasting Barolo? Or something a little less prosaic, say a nice bottle of plonk to go with a steak?
There's no doubt that wine is a confusing category for drinkers and that we in the trade do little to help them out - the jargon, the flowery descriptions ...
Which is why the chaps over at Pernod Ricard undertook some research to find out what it was people really wanted from a wine offer in a pub and what they discovered was that there is a huge demand for recognisable wine brands.
Six out of 10 respondents told the company that they "perceived branded wines to be good value for money where available in the on-trade."
Over half said branded wines offered an "assurance of good taste," and the research showed that branded wine drinkers visit the on-trade more than any other type of wine drinker, 72 per cent visit pubs at least once a month versus 64 per cent of other wine drinkers.
This thirst for big brand wine in pubs flies in the face of received wisdom, which suggests people won't pay the on-trade mark-up on a bottle of wine they know they can get in Tesco for £5.99.
But since they'll pay £4 plus for a single pint (568ml) of lager when you can get a 4x440ml pack of the same in a supermarket for £3.50 (or far, far less when it's on offer) I've always found it a difficult theory to buy into.
And, even if I'm totally off the mark, and wine is a category that's more price sensitive than others, there's still an argument for offering the big brands because people use them as signposts.
After all, of you know where in the price ladder Jacob's Creek should be, it helps one make sense of the wines around it that are less familiar, such as that bottle of Cat's Pee On A Gooseberry Bush (yes, that's an actual wine, albeit sadly not available in the UK).
For more on wine in pubs, check out our Category Insights feature on wine here.